Dragontail Peak, Triple Couloirs . Overview; Forbidden Peak Gear List × Overview. Lower Curtis Glacier on Mount Shuksan, WA_2013 . It also marks the final objective challenge of the infamous Torment-Forbidden Traverse. Me on the approach. Eroded on all sides by glaciers, it has three steep faces and kinfe-edge ridges, all leading to a lofty summit that stands as one of the highest in the entire North Cascades. Come with us to find out why. Jianing Wang August 18, 2020. After climbing the South Ridge of Mt. Boston Basin/West Ridge Forbidden 6/6 Lower Bivy composting toilet is open - upper is still buried in snow. West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Dates: Sat, Aug 15, 2020 — Sun, Aug 16, 2020 Route/Place: Forbidden Peak/West Ridge; Activity Type: Climbing Trip Result: Successful Rating: Road Conditions: Road suitable for all vehicles Route Conditions: Snow is melting out very quickly. No single move is terribly difficult but the combined volume of technical alpine rock and glaciers make this a challenging but attainable undertaking. Forbidden Peak/West Ridge. The Forbidden Peak (8.815 feet/2.687 meters) is one of the most amazing mountains in the entire Cascades and we will reach the summit of this powerful peak by taking on a classic, clean and of great quality rock route called the West Ridge route. CLIMB HIGHLIGHTS. Inspiration Glacier from West Ridge Forbidden Peak, WA_2012. From there, you descend the north side of the ridge onto upper Forbidden Glacier. Hence, the North Ridge had been on my radar for nearly two years before the temptation became irresistible. Forbidden Peak’s West Ridge ranks among one of the most pure ridges in the Cascades. Forbidden Peak, unknown a half century ago, is today almost overwhelmed by a tide of popularity, a hostage to its own existence. These photos chronicle a quick trip into the heart of the North Cascades National Park and a climb of the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak, 8815ft, III, 5.6 — one of Steck and Roper’s “ 50 Classic Climbs of North America.” Mt. Tidewater glaciers flow off Northern Patagonian Icefield, CHILE. The irony of me leaving for peaks abroad during the core of the climbing season here has never been lost on me. Torment, we traversed the mile-long ridge on glaciers, snow and (mostly) rock to the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak, the highlight of the day. Join a certified mountain guide for this challenging yet rewarding three-day mountaineering ascent of Forbidden Peak in North Cascade National Park. Their jagged ridges and rocky summits are surrounded by snowfields and glaciers, which will put all of your previous mountaineering skills to the test. West Ridge Forbidden Peak: June 4-5. Forbidden Peak’s West Ridge ranks among one of the purest ridges in the Cascades. The author and her partner, Wes Fowler, pose with the full ridge traverse and Forbidden Peak in the background, shortly after summitting Mount Torment. Additional Info. Overview; Itinerary; Training; Gear List; Why Climb With Us; Private Climbs; Logistics; Price & Schedule; Skip to content. One ridge, the west ridge… Fernow. For that, I have never actually had the time to climb in the Boston Basin. Go back to bed. We now expect its rock and vintage to not only make us feel self-sufficient but, rarest of joys, but also to make us think. Ellinor, SE Chute. This was supposed to be an experience climb for the Boealps Intermediate class that I was helping instruct (on and off) this year. Gear List. The North Cascades are a climber’s playground. Each item on the list below is required unless specified to be optional. Boston Basin. On the popular West Ridge, weekend climbers compete for belay spots and limited space. A short traverse out of the moat … This is a demanding climb that requires well-rounded alpine climbing skills. Forbidden Peak - West Ridge Forbidden Peak and my student, Jason. Forbidden is one of the 50-classic climbs in North America and for all the right reasons. It’s no wonder this climb was included in the book “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America” by Steve Roper and Allen Steck. The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a moderate to demanding mountaineering challenge that requires a wide range of movement skills. You will be able to see the entire Forbidden Peak West Ridge and take in the experience that is the North Cascades. Hiking up some nicely frozen snow below Forbidden Peak. Photo: John. 2; 112 W. 2nd St, P.O. Prologue. Forbidden Peak, West Ridge. Prepare for the ascent on the snow slopes and rock faces in beautiful Boston Basin of the North Cascades. Soon after arriving at the Marblemount ranger station early Saturday morning to try and grab a permit for a weekend in Boston Basin, we found that they had all been issued the day before. But you have to pee first.” I know of no man nor woman strong enough to resist that insistence of the pee call once woken at some unseemly hour. This is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Blog, Trip Report. Moats can be a challenge in later season, but the 5th class rock ridge is the real deal. Mostly an alpine rock climb, with a glaciated approach. Mt. Climbing Forbidden Peak has been something Josh has always wanted to do. The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is an exhilarating alpine adventure deep within the heart of North Cascades National Park. The Forbidden West Ridge: Grade 3 / 5.6: The Forbidden Peak West Ridge is one of the 50 Classic Climbs in North America - with good reason. Traverse the exciting and stunning line of Forbidden Peak's West Ridge to the mountain's summit. Forbidden Peak’s West Ridge — A Photo Essay Most North Cascades adventures start here.…brush and slider alder! Often touted as the best alpine rock route in the North Cascades, the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak features high quality rock climbing on a beautifully positioned ridge overlooking steep alpine faces, enormous glaciers, and aqua-blue lakes. Home West Ridge, Forbidden Peak. Gannett Peak, Standard (Wyoming) Mt. Ellinor - Mt Washington Traverse (Olympics) Mt. June 29, 2019. engineeredforadventure. The upper ridge alone would be worthy of classic status. Eldorado Peak, East Ridge. Forbidden Peak West Ridge (9,127 ft.) Washington. Matterhorn, Ogre And Ama Dablam Glaciers Growing, linoleum block print 44" x 43" Lower Curtis Glacier on Mount Shuksan, WA_1986. The rock knocked him off his stance, he fell about 300 feet and died. Forbidden Peak’s North Ridge is a classic mixed route on a remote side of Forbidden Peak. Few routes in the North Cascades are as formidable as the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Climb through snow and ice as well as over gneiss in order to conquer this classic North American peak. It is part of the North Cascades and is located near Cascade Pass.Forbidden Peak features a rock climbing route named West Ridge route which is featured in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. We will ascend the glacier and then climb up the well-known access couloir to the actual West Ridge. Search Submit. West Ridge, Forbidden Peak. Who: Josh Lewis and I What: Climb of Forbidden Peak West Ridge When: September 20-21, 2012 Why: For a fantastic classic alpine climb! Stunning glacier vistas, solid rock, and the sheer majesty and position of the peak combine to make this a truly memorable ascent. We had just finished the W Couloir of … Edging on the Forbidden, or the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Long, committing, complex, and remote with at least one on-route bivi, the North Ridge of Forbidden is an alpinist’s dream. The increased solitude, the variety of terrain, and the overall burliness of the ridge just had me impressed. Forbidden Peak is a striking peak, both intimidating and beautiful. The route involves a technical ascent to the ridge crest via steep snow or moderate rock, followed by wild and exposed ridge climbing to the summit. One of the considerations I have had for a long time has been spending a summer season climbing a bunch of alpine routes close to home. Forbidden Peak, North Ridge (via NW Face variation) 2018, sitting on the summit of Forbidden having just climbed the classic West Ridge, Jere and I watched a team make their way up the North Ridge. Kyle and I completed the Torment-Forbidden Traverse in a 23-hour single push on August 3rd, 2019. Garibaldi (BC Canada) Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier. Forbidden Peak lies in the heart of the North Cascades and is one of the crown jewels of the region. Kyle Rabago-Banjo, a friend of mine from Georgia Tech, had flown in for a long weekend from San Francisco. FORBIDDEN PEAK 8815Ft / 2686M WEST RIDGE-III 5.6. Forbidden Peak - 8815' - West Ridge Class 5.4 September 2012. A two-day jaunt up Boston Basin. Forbidden Peak West Ridge Intermediate Summit Climb Located in a vigorous alpine setting in the heart of the North Cascade National Park, an ascent of 8,815 foot Forbidden Peak offers excellent views of the surrounding peaks and the massive Boston Glacier and is one of the most classic climbs in the park. The phenomenal route finishes on the classic West Ridge of Forbidden Peak and, from the summit, the two other prominent and classic ridges of Forbidden are in plain view. June 07, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers. Highlights include knife edge traverses, and short steps of rock up to 5.6. Ascend a steep trail to a camp in Boston Basin. The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is another 50 Classic North American Climb located in Boston Basin of the North Cascades. Forbidden Peak: West Ridge. On Forbidden Peak we guide the Forbidden West Ridge, the Torment Forbidden Traverse, the Forbidden East Ridge direct, Glacier Peak, the Pickett Range Traverse, the North East Buttress of Mount Goode, Mount Triumph, the Ptarmigan Traverse, the North East Buttress of Mount Johannesburg, Bonanza Peak and many more. 4:00 am is a nasty little hour, not quite belonging to night nor to day, it whispers, “What are you doing? Wes Fowler . They offer big mountain terrain in an unbelievable setting. 425.888.6397 Ext. Forbidden Peak, West Ridge in smoke. The West Ridge of Forbidden is a fantastic alpine objective that requires multiple skills including rock-climbing, glacier travel, moderate snow, route-finding, fitness, efficiency, downclimbing, rappelling swiftly, and simul-climbing if attempting a one-day ascent. John and I tried to climb Forbidden Peak last year with a camp in Boston Basin, but weather forced us to bail. It combines crossing a large glacier, steep snow climbing and a beautiful alpine granite ridge that takes you directly to the summit. After you summit Torment’s crumbling silhouette, rappels and tricky route-finding carry you down to a notch. DETAILS . Running water until you reach the snowfield at Boston … This route is one of the 50 Classic Climbs in North America. Forbidden Peak is an 8,815 feet (2,687 m) glacial horn located in North Cascades National Park, in Skagit County of Washington state. Your ability and efficiency will have a major bearing on how difficult this climb feels to you. An approach from camp of about one hour will get you to the base of the Unnamed Glacier which is located below the Forbidden Peak's South Face. On the afternoon of September 14, Tyler Barton, a 31-year-old man from Seattle was struck by a falling rock while descending from the West Ridge (III 5.5) of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades of Washington. It is one of the most beautiful rock ridges in the world – wild exposure, solid rock, and moderate climbing all combine to make an amazing climb. The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is by far the most popular route, and for good reason. Forbidden Peak's West Ridge is an unforgettable alpine climb and one of America's most sought-after ascents. Climb the Forbidden Peak (2,687m) West Ridge in the North Cascades National Park, 3 days. Dragontail Peak, East Ridge. Don’t let the moderate rock rating fool you (5.7). This traverse is one of the most sought-after… Inspiration Glacier from West Ridge Forbidden Peak, WA_1982. 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